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  1. #1

    Epoxy Or Hot Melt

    Just about to make up some carbon arrows and the manufacturer supplies and recommends 2 part epoxy to glue in the inserts. They are the Easton HIT type.
    But I'm reluctant to glue in an insert that I can't easily unglue, if I should need to down the track.
    That's where hot melt has the advantage.
    Not a big problem, but I spose I'm wondering has anyone tried hot melt on this type of insert and did you regret it?
    TIA, Stick.


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  2. #2
    I tried hot melt and it didn't work, but it was just standard craft hot melt, not anything special so that probably makes a difference. I've always used two part epoxy (selleys super strength 72hr araldite) without problem except on widowmaker shafts/outserts, which just wouldn't work for some reason. The epoxy softens at 80 degrees, so if you wanted to I suppose you could still remove it by sticking the arrow in the oven.

    Jesse.

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    The rose petal floats on water. The kingfisher flashes above the pond. Life and beauty swirl in the midst of death - Robert Jordan.
  3. #3

    Epoxy Or Hot Melt

    Yeah, thanks Jesse.
    Forgot to mention I'm using brass inserts with break off segments for weight adjustability.
    I'm thinking of just using hot melt to bareshaft then epoxy once I've settled on my length.



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  4. mudgudgeon's Avatar
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    Mar 2014
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    #4
    its known as "Hot snot"
    I personally wouldn't use it for anything you wanted a permanent bond on. I think your idea of using it for bare shaft tuning has some merit, but maybe test in on one arrow first and see if it causes any problem for pulling the insert and clean up afterward. it might also cause a poor bond for epoxy later if it leave any residue
  5. #5

    Epoxy Or Hot Melt

    Yep
    I'm not looking forward to cleaning hot snot out of the inside of a shaft!


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  6. #6
    Stick all I do bareshafting is use plumbers tape over the inside end and push into shaft but make sure it lays full length up both sides of insert. Or I just put a spot of 401 loctite on the insert which is enough to lightly bond for tuning and the simply tighten head and it wiĺl break the little bond. No hot melt for me especially fubar in the summer and will let you down.
    Sneak
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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Saromango View Post
    I tried hot melt and it didn't work, but it was just standard craft hot melt, not anything special so that probably makes a difference. I've always used two part epoxy (selleys super strength 72hr araldite) without problem except on widowmaker shafts/outserts, which just wouldn't work for some reason. The epoxy softens at 80 degrees, so if you wanted to I suppose you could still remove it by sticking the arrow in the oven.

    Jesse.
    Sent from my HTC Butterfly 2 using Tapatalk
    I use the same, when I need to remove it I put a field tip in the vice, heat it with a gas torch then screw the arrow onto it, keep a little pressure on the arrow and it will come off as the insert heats up. This way the carbon doesn't get hot.
    Sent from my laptop using one finger. :o
  8. #8
    Hot melt glue finished up its run years ago however i do have a stick just for the sole purpose of tuning. The 1 stick will last years.
    For perminant fixture you cant beat epoxy but i have been known to be lazy and use the 401.
  9. 5H1F7Y's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    Darwin, NT
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    490
    #9
    I use loctite 480 for all my inserts. I don't want them coming out though and I snap inserts or shafts before ive ever pulled one out.
    Schafer Silvertip Recurve 65#
  10. #10
    Try Bohning Cool Flex Hot melt its specially made for carbons. I have been using it for a while and it works pretty good.
    I clean inside the shaft after cutting and a bit of scoring where the insert will sit and I also rough the insert with
    an emery board. It will soften in hot water and you will get the odd one let go if you hit them hard enough. I am a trad shooter though, mine hit as hard.
    Matt
    Last edited by Matt61; 19th May 2017 at 10:01 AM.
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