Bowhunting Downunder
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  1. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Wollongong, NSW
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    #11
    Being lazy I've glued a fair few inserts in with CA/loctite/superglue. Had a fair few loosen off from the shock while shooting I guess. Pulled one out yesterday to fix and it was the bond between the CA and the aluminium insert that let go. Yes, epoxied that one!
    eject, EJECT!!
  2. Magilla's Avatar
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    Jul 2011
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    #12
    The targets at our club are full of points that were glued on with hot melt and super glue, stick with the slow cure (super strength) epoxy. I saw a bloke ruin a brand new 18-1 by shooting broadheads into it that were glued on with a bow shop supplied hot melt glue, he took to the target with a knife to try and remove the heads then said he was going to do a warranty claim on the target because it was stuffed.
  3. #13
    I just set up a dozen arrows with hot melt. Cool version for bare shaft tuning (recurve) then normal once set on length. Haven't had an issue but haven shot a lot. Prefer the install with hot melt to epoxy. For best bond....24 hour epoxy for sure.
  4. #14

    Epoxy Or Hot Melt

    Yeah, point taken.
    As usual, thanks heaps for all the tips.
    I've taken the morning off to make up my arrows and give the epoxy 24 hours. Then I can shoot all weekend!
    (The benefits of self employment)
    (And hey it's a bit drizzly )
    I always leave one of the dozen shafts as a reference bareshaft, so I figure I'll use hot melt on that one only.
    I reckon there's not too many things in life that top knocking up a dozen sticks. But then maybe I should get out more?
    Cheers, Stick.


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  5. #15
    I use the Axis with the hit inserts brass - and never have a problem with the supplied epoxy - if you're experimenting with length etc - you can always cut down from the nock end - may be easier to re-fletch than remove the inserts...cheers....
    Last edited by Johnno; 19th May 2017 at 04:40 PM.
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  6. disco stu's Avatar
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    #16
    Shop I used to work at had a really nice hot melt glue. From some archery company but I can't remember which. It wasn't like the craft hot melt that is soft and doesn't adhere well, it was harder and it stuck really well to stuff. Can probably find some other plastic that would work similar. In the past I've used heavy game fishing trace as hot melt glue for rod tips when camped out on a ledge for a few days fishing. That tip stayed on for years no issue.

    That idea someone posted about heating up the field point and screwing it in to soften hot melt would likely work with epoxy as well. It softens well with heat like Jesse mentioned (I think) and loses its adherence, but when it cools back down its back to full strength. You wouldn't want to heat carbon shaft directly and try to remove as that would likely split apart while pulling insert out
    eject, EJECT!!
  7. #17
    I use both. Started off with Easton hot melt on powerflights with no issues. Changed up to Easton axis with HIT inserts with epoxy, no issues. I shoot Easton deepsix with stainless steel points for target glued in with hot melt, no issues. Also shoot indoor target with aluminium X27 605grain glued with hot melt, no issues. Those *******s bury hard and are pricks to pull. They both hold well if applied correctly but I think hot melt is quick & easy to use and easier to undo. That said I don't think Id use hot melt on HIT inserts as there's less gluing surface area. You may say whats a target shooter putting his 20cents here, but I started shooting target to become a better shot as a hunter.
  8. assassin's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    #18
    24 hr Araldite or similar is all I use. As Magilla said in an earlier post, our club target butts are also full of inserts & tips that were glued in at a bow shop with hot melt or super glue type products......



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  9. #19
    Side note when using araldite/locktite depending on your glue type.. if your inserts are hollow you can drop a drill bit through into the arrow shafts. Flick them downward hard and the drill bit will slam into the inside of the insert like a slide hammer. Repeat until the shock breaks the bond and drives the insert out. (May result in flying insert and drill bit so do apply common sense to force used.)

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  10. #20
    Epoxy has the advantage of durability, but it will let go if you:

    a. use the Selleys 5 minute stuff. I really, really dislike this glue; or
    b. don't mix the stuff properly, or don't leave it to cure properly.

    The best I have found for carbons is either Bohning Insert Iron (which is impressively tough, even pulling from targets or bags). It's not cheap at about $25 for virtually 28 ml.

    Otherwise, the proper slow-cure epoxy which costs more because it's based upon a marine application.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fragarach View Post
    Side note when using araldite/locktite depending on your glue type.. if your inserts are hollow you can drop a drill bit through into the arrow shafts. Flick them downward hard and the drill bit will slam into the inside of the insert like a slide hammer. Repeat until the shock breaks the bond and drives the insert out. (May result in flying insert . . .)
    That might be fine for .244-246 inch internal diameter shafts. Not much use on .165-166. This latter dimension is only 4.2 mm space inside the shaft, so there is not much room to move. The 'hammer' would take ages and damage the shaft before the insert comes off, especially using a decent glue.
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