DNA Bowhunting
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  1. #1

    Need advice selecting arrows for recurve bow.

    Hi everyone,
    I have a recurve bow with 55 and 45 pound limbs. I took the 55 pound limbs off and put the 45 pound limbs on it and now I need new arrows to match the lower poundage limbs. I just need a second opinion before I make any purchases.
    The limbs are 45 pounds at a 28 inch draw, but my draw length is only almost 26 inches. I've calculated that I would need arrows with a spine stiffness of .500, a length of 31 inches from nock to carbon (I shoot barebow so I prefer longer arrows as they're easier to aim with), a point weight of 100 grains, insert weight of 20 grains and a nock weight of 10 grains. That would bring my total arrow weight to around 385 grains. F.O.C. would be around 13.5% and speed would be around 180 feet per second (Using a standard B50 12 strand). Does this all sound correct? I mainly just shoot targets at the moment, but if I did any small game (rabbits, foxes) hunting, would this arrow setup be alright for distances up to 30 metres?
    For anything larger than foxes (goats, pigs, deer), at my draw length I would need the 55 pound limbs to get roughly 50 pounds. I've calculated that I would need the 31 inch .400 spine arrows with 125 grain points that I currently have. I also have .400 spine arrows cut down to 29 inches and for those I would need a 185 grain point. Is this correct? I'm only a beginner and have been trying to learn as much as I can.
    I find that with the 55 pound limbs, 29 inch long .400 arrows with 100 grain points shoot quite well, but I don't know whether that is actually the correct spine stiffness, arrow length and point weight. I hope I'm not over complicating things... If any one else here shoots either 40 or 50 pounds on a recurve, what is your arrow setup for target shooting as well as hunting?
    Thanks,
    ~Gideon
  2. #2

    Need advice selecting arrows for recurve bow.

    GDay Gideon
    It sounds to me like your arrows are correctly spined for those draw weights.
    I currently shoot a 55# recurve with .360 spine cut to 29" with 145 grains up front.
    Can I ask if you've tried bareshafting?
    I would think the.500's would be ok for 45# limbs with such a low point weight. But I prefer a higher FOC , so would normally err on the side of a stiffer shaft with a heavier tip.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Stickflinger; 12th August 2017 at 12:55 PM.
  3. #3
    Download - Stu Miller Dynamic Spine Calculator - its a free download - and great to put you in the ball park for trad.
    2014 PSE DNA SP - 65#
    2015 PSE Full Throttle - 67#
    Martin Mamba Recurve - 55#
  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Stickflinger View Post
    GDay Gideon
    It sounds to me like your arrows are correctly spined for those draw weights.
    I currently shoot a 55# recurve with .360 spine cut to 29" with 145 grains up front.
    Can I ask if you've tried bareshafting?
    I would think the.500's would be ok for 45# limbs with such a low point weight. But I prefer a higher FOC , so would normally err on the side of a stiffer shaft with a heavier tip.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I haven't tried bareshafting yet, but I will try paper tuning. I have a suspicion that my nock point is either too high or too low because I've noticed my arrows look like they're porpoising, but I can't be 100% sure without paper tuning.

    Yeah, I think 100 grain points may be a little light. So, I think I'll just get a bunch of .500 spine arrows at 30 inches and 125 grain points to use with the 45 pound limbs. I had some, but they were take-down arrows and the aluminium inserts connecting them bent. I found that they shot very well and hit hard enough to go through a steel bucket... ruining the blazer vanes I had on them.

    I re-weighed the points I have on my 31 inch .400 arrows that I use with the 55 pound limbs and they're actually 125 grains, so they're actually spined correctly for that poundage anyway. I also have 29 inch .400 arrows with 125 grain points and they're definitely a little too stiff, so I think I'll put some 185 grain points on the end to correct it. They fish tail a lot and consistently hit to the right of my point of aim and according to my bow tuning manual that indicates a stiff spine. (I shoot left handed, so everything is opposite.)
  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnno View Post
    Download - Stu Miller Dynamic Spine Calculator - its a free download - and great to put you in the ball park for trad.
    Yeah, thanks for the tip. It took me a while to figure out how to use it, but it's very helpful.
  6. #6
    You lost me mate when you said takedown arrows? Are you using feathers not vanes for the recurve mate.
    Cheers Sneak
    Stick, String and Sharp Things what could possibly go wrong?

    Sneak, Sneak, Sneak, Whack!!!

    RUN BOY RUN UPA TREE UPA TREE!!!!
  7. #7
    I recon have a good crack at bare shafting.
    Just remember your release is very important.
    A poor release will give you false reading.
  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Sneaky View Post
    You lost me mate when you said takedown arrows? Are you using feathers not vanes for the recurve mate.
    Cheers Sneak
    Yes, I'm shooting off the shelf with 4 inch feathers. I like the noise feather fletched arrows make when they fly through the air. :D I don't like take down arrows, they have a weak spot in the centre and I'm pretty sure it messes up how the arrow flexes. I got them for free if that explains it. :D
    Last edited by Gideon; 13th August 2017 at 12:15 AM.
  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Stu Ballz View Post
    I recon have a good crack at bare shafting.
    Just remember your release is very important.
    A poor release will give you false reading.
    I'll read up a little more on bareshaft tuning. I know when my release is bad because my arrow flight and point of impact will be very erratic. It's definitely a spine problem when I can shoot and hit my point of aim consistently with certain arrows that I know are correctly spined but when I try the shorter arrows they always hit to the right of whatever I'm aiming at.
  10. #10
    Hi Gideon I have shot only Trad bows for over twenty years and have found that its not good to try and bareshaft test arrows on a day with any wind at all. Even the slightest cross wind will give a false indication.
    I shoot 125grn points but I start bareshafting with a 100 grn point and once I have cut enough of the shaft that it flies slightly stiff with the 100grn point , I know it will be very close to being right for my 125grn points and might only need a couple of millimeters cut off to be spot on. Another thing I do is I add to the back end of the test shaft everything that will be on my finished arrows, that is wraps, different nocks and inserts and I even add weight equivalent to my feathers. I have noticed in tuning that if as little as five grns is added to the back of an arrow and it will fly completely different and a four inch feather weighs about three grns.
    Matt
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