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Thread: Bow press

  1. disco stu's Avatar
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    #1

    Bow press

    So, last year I purchased a bow from the US, and had to get it sent in pieces as the price was horrendous for this one being longer ATA. Anyway, that meant a better bow press than my bowmaster

    This is what I ended up with. Took me way longer than it should have to build (even for me!) but now I know what I know I could whip one up in a weekend or so. I just kept trying out ideas and different things that never worked out. Now its built-works fine. Tension comes from the ratchet strap at the top. If you aren't aware (which it seems is the case in the US, you can step a ratchet strap loose, rather than that violent method). It only takes 3 or so clicks to loosen up the string enough.

    The bow is held on the angled bits, with a bolt that goes through a hole in the riser. All is padded well to stop scratches etc. One side of that can pivot, as the ends go past the limb pocket basically, so can't just slide the bow in. The other side is well secured. With the bow strung these are probably not needed, but with no string on the bow would just rise up when trying to press
    IMG_20171110_214809_HDR.jpg

    These little wheels on the side press on the limb at the thicker portion. For once, Bunnings actually had something I could use, and they weren't overly expensive. I initially tried faffing around with things that clipped over the end of the limbs that the press arms would hit against, but it was a waste of time (way too much time!). The bits of wood above that are screwed on are just for keeping the arms together in that area, make sure they don't twist or spread out. Welder had thrown a hissy fit by that stage so welding a plate on was just getting too difficult (had to mod the welder halfway through the job already)
    IMG_20180103_230321.jpg

    The idea with the wood glued on is so that I can adjust how far out the wheels are for different bows. I had to mod the wheels a little bit so they wouldn't hit on the cams, as the axle stuck out further than it should have
    IMG_20180103_230345.jpg

    When I first used it to string the bow up, I obviously had to wind a lot of strap onto the ratchet to bring the limbs in enough, but now its strung it only takes 3 clicks. Its a little fiddly with the arms in the way, but not overly so. Just use a screwdriver to guide the string on around the cam.

    Next time I would probably make something that sticks the wheels out the side of the arms, so the arms can be further apart giving more room to move. that was actually the original plan that didn't quite work out.

    Most parts used were from things laying around or being thrown out, as is my typical style. The little wheels were bought, plus some 3mm plate for where the arms are secured to the timber base
    eject, EJECT!!
  2. jager's Avatar
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    #2
    Hey great job mate .��
  3. disco stu's Avatar
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    #3
    Cheers Jager. Simple, cheap and works well, exactly what I wanted.

    I've seen some designs like this where the arms press directly onto the limbs, but really didn't like that idea-hence going for the wheels. Doesn't help that the New Breed that I have has small bolts in the very tips of the limbs
    eject, EJECT!!
  4. #4

    Bow press

    Damn. You could string a small ballista with that!
    Upload dimensions as well as the instructions for everyone if you could?
    Be nice to have an alternative to the sash cramp press.

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
    -= The Matter is Void =-
  5. disco stu's Avatar
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    #5
    Cheers mate. I'll try and get some dimensions together. Most of it is just make it as you see, but for some of the parts I can give more outline to what I did and why.

    I was originally wanting to go with something like the sash clamp, as its pretty simple, but it just didn't have the "throw" I needed for putting this bow back together.

    I'll try and get more info here tomorrow
    eject, EJECT!!
  6. #6
    Awesome job, looks like a goer
  7. Magilla's Avatar
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    #7
    Nice work Stu, I like the rollers, they should be kind to the limbs. Do you strap the riser down before you press the bow?
  8. disco stu's Avatar
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    #8
    Cheers guys. The bow is held down, not sure how to explain it but you'll see when I explain it all as Fragarach asked.

    So there are 2 parts to it: the pressing part pulled together with the ratchet strap, and the bow holding part. Both are mounted on some 2x4 (I think, or close to it). The bow holding parts are wider, so needed some wider bits of hardwood, which needed to be accounted for when building.

    I'll go through the thinking etc with it. I don't like giving dimensions, because what someone else will use will likely be very different (most of this was stuff just laying around), and because it will be for a different bow.

    The bow holding part

    The photo shows this in action.

    cropped in press.jpg

    Bolts for each arm go through a hole that is in each end of the riser in the same place

    So the arms have to angle out to miss the limb pocket. But you couldn't slip the bow in either if one side didn't rotate.
    fixed mount.jpgrotate mount.jpg

    These are made with 1" steel for the arms. The fixed one has something like 1.5" black steel for the base, which was laying around. You can see that the fixed one has one arm that can rotate outwards, I made one side with only 1 screw so that it can tighten right onto the riser to hold it tight. The rotating side has a spring washer in there so that there is a little bit of movement so it can clamp down tight.

    There is a nut soldered on one side for the bolt to go into. Learnt the hard way not to weld that, as it ended up out of square and couldn't tighten it properly. Solder meant that I could bolt it up and then solder the nut down,plus also adjust it if needed with just a bit of heat. It only has to hold it, not really take any pressure so solder is fine.

    The bolt was a little bit of problem solving.
    bolt.jpg

    I wanted a tight fit into each arm of the holder, but also wanted to be able to pad the part which is through the bow while under pressure. Best option was some pipe that bulked out one side larger than the padding would be, meaning I could still slide the bolt in and out no problems.Was a bit of a pain getting it centred, but ended up getting it sorted. Given more choice in materials I could find a bolt to suit the bit of pipe I had.

    I tried to make it so each side ended up with the same dimensions, so the bow would be as square as possible when under pressure. Padding is some car roof lining that has a foam centre.

    So to put the bow in, you take out the bolts, and flip the rotating arms to point towards the bow grip. Start the bolt in the fixed side, and then flip the arms into the right place and start the bolts in the rotating side. Tighten each bolt to tight with hand and the bow is in solid.

    Due to clearances etc the bow will move up somewhat in the holder, so I just pull up once its all tightened down and before I start pressing.

    These are screwed down to the timber mount with the longest screws I could use, its screwed all the way through. When I first tested it I put a lot of pressure up and ended up pulling some screws, so I then overengineered it. The black parts are screwed into some hardwood decking, and that stuff seems harder than aluminium so shouldn't be dramas there. The decking screwed into the pine base was the iffy part.

    I'll try and post the pressing arms soon
    eject, EJECT!!
  9. #9
    Good share mate
  10. Ian Turner's Avatar
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    Nov 2012
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    #10
    Bet he votes labor or greens!
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