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  1. #1

    Draw Stop Hack? Or tuning errors...

    Hey boys,

    So the story goes, I just bought a used Bowtech invasion CPX which has jumped me to 70lb up from 60 on my old hunting rig and a MUCH more aggressive draw cycle. All that's fine but since sending it to Abbeys for tuning it feels a little different on the draw. Specifically the valley seems non existent. Now I know this is nothing unusual for a "speed bow" but it definitely seems different to when I test-drew it the day I received it. A couple of things to note, are that the bow came in the mail set to 60ish lbs, with the draw length module at a 27.5inch draw. I've had Abbey's crank it down to 70lb and run the draw length out to 28.5. Potentially important is that I normally draw 29 inches but I got it set a touch short thinking it would give me access to a little more back tension at full draw.

    Now to the wildcard, On arrival the draw stop setting didn't match the draw length setting. The length was at 27.5, while the stops were in the 28in hole. I just figured the previous owner had done some home servicing and miscounted the holes when replacing the stops, so I got Abbey's to set it up "right".

    Now, given the valley felt longer when I originally drew the bow I'm wondering if running the draw stops one position out from spec was the reason. And is this is a thing that people commonly do on short valley bows?

    Alternatively maybe the lower poundage and too-short draw length on the first test was masking a short valley that hasn't actually changed with the re-tune at all.

    OR, maybe having it set to 28.5 instead of my normal 29 is actually hampering my chest expansion and compounding the perceived effect of the shorter-than-I'm-used-to valley.

    Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

    Thanks fellas.
  2. #2
    If the draw stop have been changed since you first acquired it that will explain the difference in the valley. By having the draw stops set differently to the draw length you can increase or lessen the valley. Personally, I prefer the draw stop set at the same length to the draw length given this is the manner the bow is meant to be set up.

    BTW - a jump from #60 to #70 is a big hit - better to reduce it down to about #65 and get used to the extra - then build up gradually.
    Last edited by Johnno; 23rd August 2018 at 12:28 PM.
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  3. #3
    If the string has stretched you will have lost some valley. Or has the changed draw settings somehow lengthened the string
    Then the cables play a part either long or short I can't remember.

    Get a hold of the nuts and bolts of archery pdf from Google.
    Last edited by parkerperson; 23rd August 2018 at 02:49 PM.
  4. #4

    Draw Stop Hack? Or tuning errors...

    Hi Mate,
    This was done intentionaly by ozhunting and bows for the reason you mentioned. To have a little better valley. So do that and you will see. Worked for me great.

    Hope that helps

    Sent from my SM-N9200 using Tapatalk
  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnno View Post
    Personally, I prefer the draw stop set at the same length to the draw length given this is the manner the bow is meant to be set up.
    I'd lean the same way myself on instinct.

    But it got me to thinking about what could possibly go wrong. I mean out of sync cams, shortstringing etc can definitely have disastrous outcomes on a fast bow with heavily compressed limbs like bowtech uses. But slightly advanced drawstops? Assuming the thing is tuned I can't think of any undue stresses that would be applied to the mechanism. Like I might lose some speed, and the back wall might turn a little spongier. But from a safety perspective it should be okay right? Happy to have my logic called into question here, I'm definitely no engineer.

    Either way I am going to stick with the setup "in spec" until I've had a chance to really get used to the bow. As far as poundage goes I think I'm okay there, I'm not struggling to draw smoothly (just for now slightly less smoothly than with my lighter bows). I am feeling the extra weight but not to where my form has collapsed.
  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Zoro1arrow View Post
    Hi Mate,
    This was done intentionaly by ozhunting and bows for the reason you mentioned. To have a little better valley. So do that and you will see. Worked for me great.

    Hope that helps

    Sent from my SM-N9200 using Tapatalk
    Cheers, as soon as I realised the difference I was pretty sure I could see the method to it. I'd just never heard of it being done before.

    PS love the bow mate, this post is definitely not a dig.
  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by parkerperson View Post
    If the string has stretched you will have lost some valley. Or has the changed draw settings somehow lengthened the string
    Then the cables play a part either long or short I can't remember.

    Get a hold of the nuts and bolts of archery pdf from Google.
    Cheers mate, the string is basically new but fully shot in. Stretch shouldn't be part of the equation in this case.

    I'll definitely check out the article, sounds like there'll be plenty in it worth learning.
  8. #8

    Draw Stop Hack? Or tuning errors...

    How spongy is the back wall with the draw stops out of place ? Wouldn't there be extra load on the cam from the cables if you are using it as a stop instead of the actual draw stop?

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
    -= The Matter is Void =-
  9. #9

    Draw Stop Hack? Or tuning errors...

    Quote Originally Posted by GojiraSteve View Post
    Cheers, as soon as I realised the difference I was pretty sure I could see the method to it. I'd just never heard of it being done before.

    PS love the bow mate, this post is definitely not a dig.
    No worries mate and the book suggested is really a good read. Also maybe up the poundage gradually this will help staying in control. I did not hear of this hack either but the guy at the shop is quite good at tuning bows. Good luck with it.

    Sent from my SM-N9200 using Tapatalk
  10. assassin's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    #10
    Hey Steve, whilst I am certainly no Bow Mechanic or expert, my suggestions are :

    1. Open your pants and make sure you have a penis;
    2. Grab some Mathews or Elite limbs,
    3. Get hold of either a Mathews or Elite riser to suit the limbs,
    4. Change your Cams to either Mathews or Elite (see above suggestions)
    5. Get PeterM (Killer Bowstrings) to build you some strings & cables to suit your selection of the aforementioned items;
    6. Check to make sure that your Blowtech hasn't actually exploded and hurt an innocent Bystander;
    7. Make sure that you really understand the aforementioned suggestions;


    HAHAHAHA,

    Good luck though mate! Just thought I'd add a bit of humor!

    Bring on the Cape! (maybe?)

    Mick
    Last edited by assassin; 23rd August 2018 at 09:23 PM.
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