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  1. #1

    New bow sight set up and tuning


    this will probably be a bit long winded but any help appreciated.

    I have just replaced the whisker biscuit that came with the bow (PSE Stinger) with a NAP Apache drop away rest

    I adjusted centre shot by eyeballing and the same when ensuring my arrow is in line with the berger hole.

    so - Bow shoots well at 20 yards but there flyers which can prob be accounted by user error. But for the most part I can get my arrows in an apple sized group.

    However, when I shoot a bareshaft at 20m it veers about 6 inches to the left and high from the fletched arrows. This may be crappy grip and torquing but I don't thinks so because I could hit bareshafts with my fletched arrows through the whisker biscuit.

    so -

    1. Should I be adjusting my rest to follow my bareshaft so that they end up hitting with the fletched arrows?

    2. is it worth doing paper tuning with bareshafts to see where the problem lies?

    3. I havent changed my D-Loop position from its setting to the WB but I figure that its already been squared to the berger hole that I didn't need to change it - however - should I use a bow square to check if things are still squared up?

    4. When using a bow square does the bottom or top edge of the square represent the top or bottom of the arrow?

    Im really sorry of this doesn't make sense but Im still new to fine tuning.

  2. #2
    The WB is a much more forgiving rest - given that the arrow stays in contact with the WB for a longer period - it sounds to me like a form issue - as a BS is very unstable in flight and will magnify any form issues. I don think its the setup. But you should also def shoot through paper - which will show any issues with the arrow flight. BTW if you shoot through paper - and you shoot fletched arrows - stand a maximum of about 2-3 metres no further - as past this the fletches will start to direct the flight. Also as with any DA rest - ensure the rest is correctly timed to raise in the last 1-2"of the draw. On both my PSE bows I have the arrow positioned so the top of the arrow is on the arrow guide mark on the riser which put the arrow at about 90 degrees the string. If you think its the rest - then chase the BS (bare shaft) arrows with the FA (fletched arrows) and move the rest in the direction of the FA - if the BS hit high then raise the rest a very little etc so that the FA hit the same as the BS. Focus on the vertical before the horizontal. Then when the FA are hitting with the BS but now all arrows are left of whatever direction but together - then move your sight accordingly. But before doing anything - be certain that your grip is correct - or you're just wasting your time.
    Last edited by Johnno; 10th September 2018 at 05:15 PM.
    2014 PSE DNA SP - 65#
    2015 PSE Full Throttle - 64#
    Martin Mamba Recurve - 50#
    Bear Kodiak Magnum 50th Anniversary #55
  3. #3
    Thanks Johnno

    Yes I also suspect a form issue. I have just recently put some medical tape on my grip and i am thinking that this has introduced some grip torque into the system. I'll take that off and see if that makes a difference to my groupings and to bareshaft poi. after that I'll do some paper tuning and see where i'm at.

    cheers for the advice

  4. #4
    One thing I've found with bare shaft tuning is that the nock of the b/s follows the stroke direction of the string. You'll notice that the nock normally hits in line with the spot you aim at on the target and the point of the b/s is off. That is if the arrow is not in perfect line of the string stroke (which is why you tune it). You are trying to get what they call "centre column loading" on the arrow shaft. For that the shaft must be perfectly in line with the travel of the nocking point when the string moves forward at the shot.

    So if the nock (back) of the b/s is over to the right and the point to the left, move the rest to the right to bring the point to the right and the nock over to the left. if the nock is low, drop the rest down or move the nocking point up to lift the tail of the shaft.
    Once the bare shaft's posture in the target is perfectly in line with its flight path (or parallel to a fletched arrow next to it), your bow is tuned. The intention of this method is not really to see where the b/s hits the target, but to get it to fly straight out of the bow. When it does, your bow is tuned, your arrows leave the bow without fishtailing or porpoising and your broadheads should also fly where your field points go.
    Bowtech Reign 6 & Experience
    600 grain Arrows
  5. #5
    Thanks Guardian.
    Do you think I should forgo the paper tuning and just try to get my b/s shooting straight. I would imagine paper test8ng with b/s would achieve the same result - straight nock travel?
    Still trying to develop consistent form so human error on my part is without doubt a factor. I'll post up my findings soon.
  6. Magilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Port Macquarie
    Paper tuning will show you what you need to know Adrian, if the tears are not consistent then it is a form or contact problem, if they are consistent it is a bow tune problem and can be adjusted out in most cases.
  7. #7
    Also don't forget - the medium you shoot into can have a bearing on how the arrow presents in the target. For that reason I tend to focus more on where the arrow is hitting and not if it is sticking out straight - as I and others have said - paper tuning will show the manner in which the arrows are leaving the bow.
    2014 PSE DNA SP - 65#
    2015 PSE Full Throttle - 64#
    Martin Mamba Recurve - 50#
    Bear Kodiak Magnum 50th Anniversary #55
  8. #8
    I'm shooting in to the third hand rag bag target which is obviously an uneven target.
    Should I paper tune with fletched or bare shafts?
  9. #9
    Magilla and Johnno are correct as far as paper tuning and the medium of the butt go in which you shoot your bare shaft. I shoot bare shafts into my foam broadhead butt which is pretty new and uniform.
    Do paper tuning with a fletched arrow at about 3 to 4 paces. Further and the vanes will start to correct the arrow flight. It's also easier to see the point and the fletches tears in the paper than when using a b/s.
    I either do paper OR b/s tuning but everyone to his own. B/s tuning is just easier for me - no paper to replace. But you need a bit more space/distance for b/s tuning (up to 20m or more) than when paper tuning (3 -4 m).
    And lastly your grip on the bow needs to be constant with no torque. When I was shooting a Mathews with a wooden grip, it made a massive difference in arrow flight when I switched between using smooth nylon camo gloves and bare hand. The bare hand stuck to the wooden grip and put some side torque on the shot, whereas the smooth slippery nylon gloves settled the bow grip into my hand very consistently. The latter was the only way I could tune my old 3 blade Thunderheads to fly with the field points.
    Bowtech Reign 6 & Experience
    600 grain Arrows
  10. disco stu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Wollongong, NSW
    One thing that I find helped heaps for proper grip and torque was using a hind sight style rear sight. I don't use it now because I don't need to. It shows up any torque you are putting on very clearly. I'm selling an anchor sight which will do the same thing, but you could easily make something that would help just indicate if you are torquing bow
    eject, EJECT!!
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