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  1. #21
    Sorry I meant my arrows are 350 not 300.
    Anyway, I've tried combinations of lowering or increasing DW with cutting an inch off the 30in shafts to stiffen them up. Nothing works. Fletched through paper text book hopes but I cannot get my B/s to hit straight and they ate always hitting nock low left and 6in from fletched shafts.
    I haven't tried yoke tuning as yet but seems like a big inconsistency to fix up with twisting a few strings.
  2. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Wollongong, NSW
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    #22
    I think I answered based on 350 spine anyway. What I find with my stinger 3g was yoke tuning for getting things close, and small rest movement just for final touches. It sounds like you need to work on yoke tuning. I think you said your tears were consistent, so it could rule out torquing. Even still, it wouldn't hurt putting something there just to show if you are. Even taping a bit of wire you can bend to line up with something and just leave it on for a few days wouldn't hurt and heaps easier than setting up something like a hind sight.

    Someone is selling a bow master with split limb adapters that looks like it would fit your bow. Definitely a handy piece of equipment as you're going to need to adjust cables over time for timing marks when string stretches etc.

    Are you happy to share what area you're in? Someone may well have a press they would let you use. If you're close to Wollongong I would be happy to let you use mine
    eject, EJECT!!
  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by ADO View Post
    So after a few days of tuning my fletched arrow are shooting nice and straight out to 20m. But my bare shafts are making me lose my mind. I get a bullet hole at 5m -+
    Paper tuning bareshaft at 10 m + shows a horrible right to left almost horizontal tear about 3in long.
    The bare shafts are hitting to the right and nock pointing severely to the left.
    I've tried moving my rest to the right but at a time but no significant difference even bringing the rest as far as I can go without my fletched arrows hitting the riser.
    Adrian
    The theory of the mechanics of the shot is like this: when the string goes forward during the power stroke, it pushes only on the nock of the arrow (shaft). If the string goes more to the left of the point of the arrow (as yours seems to do), it will push the tail/nock of the shaft over to the left and cause a horizontal tear through paper or a nock left b/shaft in the target.
    To align the point of the shaft with the nock, the point needs to be moved LEFT, not right, to align with the nock during the power stroke. BUT here is when things get a bit more complicated. It also depends on how long your arrow is held up by the drop away rest whether it will affect the point of the arrow or also the back part of the arrow. That's why sometimes moving the rest in the "wrong" direction will correct the arrow flight (like moving it right when the nock is too far left already - theoretically you are moving the point of the arrow further away from the line the string is pushing the nock).
    So what you can try is to move the rest towards the left and see if it makes any difference.
    If not, it could be the way your hand presses on the grip. It puts pressure on a certain area of the grip (possibly more on the left side) so when the shot is released and the pressure comes off your hand, it releases the pressure uneven, causing the bow (and the string) to swing over towards the left, giving you a shaft leaving the bow with nock moving to the left.
    Try a slightly different hand position on the grip and check the b/s angle in the target (or through paper).
    As mentioned before, I had a Mathews DXT which would ALWAYS shoot bare shafts nock high and left, no matter how I tuned the yokes or rest - until I put a smooth nylon camo glove on the bow hand. Then it would shoot b/shafts straight and broadheads with field points.

    Sorry for the long story but I hope you get sorted!
    Bowtech Reign 6 & Experience
    600 grain Arrows
  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Guardian View Post
    The theory of the mechanics of the shot is like this: when the string goes forward during the power stroke, it pushes only on the nock of the arrow (shaft). If the string goes more to the left of the point of the arrow (as yours seems to do), it will push the tail/nock of the shaft over to the left and cause a horizontal tear through paper or a nock left b/shaft in the target.
    To align the point of the shaft with the nock, the point needs to be moved LEFT, not right, to align with the nock during the power stroke. BUT here is when things get a bit more complicated. It also depends on how long your arrow is held up by the drop away rest whether it will affect the point of the arrow or also the back part of the arrow. That's why sometimes moving the rest in the "wrong" direction will correct the arrow flight (like moving it right when the nock is too far left already - theoretically you are moving the point of the arrow further away from the line the string is pushing the nock).
    So what you can try is to move the rest towards the left and see if it makes any difference.
    If not, it could be the way your hand presses on the grip. It puts pressure on a certain area of the grip (possibly more on the left side) so when the shot is released and the pressure comes off your hand, it releases the pressure uneven, causing the bow (and the string) to swing over towards the left, giving you a shaft leaving the bow with nock moving to the left.
    Try a slightly different hand position on the grip and check the b/s angle in the target (or through paper).
    As mentioned before, I had a Mathews DXT which would ALWAYS shoot bare shafts nock high and left, no matter how I tuned the yokes or rest - until I put a smooth nylon camo glove on the bow hand. Then it would shoot b/shafts straight and broadheads with field points.

    Sorry for the long story but I hope you get sorted!
    Thanks mate. Awesome explanation. I reckon there is a good chance I'm tourquing the bow. Might try a different or more relaxed grip and see if that helps
    Then if good, sight in my BH.
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