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Thread: Dloop not even

  1. #1

    Dloop not even

    G’day guys. I was just wondering if the reason my d loop is in even is the limbs are not set to the same poundage? I've never attempted tiller tuning on the bow. Or could it be how I’m drawing the bow?

    Thanks Shannon

  2. #2
    Firstly your draw length looks as though it is set too long for you, if the dloop was replaced recently it may not be in the middle of the string. Did you set your arrow/nock on the string and tie the loop in after lining the arrow up with the berger hole in the riser? Easier way to check if the limbs are set to the same weight is wind then down til they bottom out (counting turns) and then wind them both back out evenly to desired weight.
    Schafer Silvertip Recurve 65#
  3. #3

    It felt like the draw length might not have been long enough. This is my first compound bow though so Iím really not to sure. The bow came with the d loop installed so Iím not sure if it's in the middle but Iíll check it out when I get home tomorrow. I did set the limbs the way you mentioned. I guess I was just thinking that they might not have been manufactured exactly the same... thanks a lot for your advice and Iíll check the dloop position.

  4. Hailes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Wingham NSW 2429
    Hey Shannon

    Its possible your face pressure on the string is causing the torque in the loop. Try to relax on the string, head up and tip of your nose on the string (you may need to change the position of your peep). The draw length looks ok, but you may notice your neck/head is down. Once you have done this, post another pic.

    Can I ask where your located, see if i know someone in your area to give you a hand.

    Craig Hailes

    Host of Hunting Camp Downunder Podcast

    Wingham, NSW 2429
    +61 439 471 949
  5. #5
    Shannon - your draw length looks about 1" too long. You should be able to get more behind the string with the string on the tip of your nose. Once you shorten the draw length and get more behind the string you will reduce the string pressure on your face as has been suggested. You will also have to readjust your peep height. A good place to start to ID your nocking point is to measure the distance from the centre of the limb axels (that hold on the cams) and half it. That will place you in the centre of your string with your arrow about mid to or near the burger hole (the bolt hole where the rests fits). Once you shorten your draw - you can then start to make the bow fit more to you - and not you to the bow.
    2014 PSE DNA SP - 65#
    2015 PSE Full Throttle - 64#
    Martin Mamba Recurve - 50#
    Bear Kodiak Magnum 50th Anniversary #55
  6. #6
    Hey Craig thanks for that. Yeah I can feel my self having to drop my head to look through the peep. The d loop seems to be that shape from the start of the draw cycle.

    I'm based in briz and don't have a bow press. The bow is pretty much due for a new set of strings and cables so I might get that done and look at moving the peep.

    If there is someone in briz to show me the ropes that°d be great!

    Thanks so much for your feed back.

  7. #7
    G'day Johnno. Thanks for that. I°ll look at getting some 27 draw modules and see how that feels. Shooting the bow feels comfortable now but like I said , it's my first compound so some experimentation would be good.

    Thanks Shannon.
  8. #8
    Shannon, a few things to consider here.
    Not all bows have the nock position half way between the upper and lower cams - thus not in the "middle" of the string. Not sure about Hoyts (like yours) but my Bowtech Experience has the nocking point about 16mm above the middle of the string. I remember a Mathews that I had, had the nocking point in the middle of the string with the grip well below the middle of the bow.
    Most bows as far as I know nowadays have the middle point of the string between the top of the grip and the Berger hole - that is at the arrow shelf.
    Now you'll understand when you draw your bow your bow hand press below the mid point of the bow, but you actually pull on the string above the midpoint of the bow. So you are actually pulling "upwards" from where your bow hand grips the bow. [Also if you are "heeling" the bow (pressing harder with the lower part of your bow hand) it will tend to tilt the bow bottom away from and the bow top towards you, which means you put more upwards pressure on the D-loop.]
    In the past we've tried to tune that D-loop angle out by positioning the arrow below the Berger hole and closer to the grip so that you pull more in line with the grip's pressure point. In some cases we could totally get rid of the upward slant in the D-loop. Normally the loop shape after the shot will also give you an indication of whether your force on it was upwards or straight in line - if you don't take a photo at full draw each time :)
    Like Johnno said, first get your head position, peep height and draw length spot on before you start tuning finer stuff like D-loop shape. You can start by checking that you don't "heel" the bow with your grip.
    I can help you with pleasure if you care to make a trip to the GC
    Bowtech Reign 6 & Experience
    600 grain Arrows

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