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  1. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Wollongong, NSW
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    #11
    I've got the Easton tuning guide. Tried to add it as an attachment, but no go as its over the 19.something kb limit for documents....

    Next idea is dropbox. This link should work for anyone to access this document on my dropbox. Let me know if it doesn't work and I can email it

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/eoy5peasoc...Guide.pdf?dl=0

    With you moving your head down-is that due to height of the peep or due to the draw length? Normally adjust draw length based on where your drawing hand ends up at anchor point, ignoring what your head does, and then adjust peep to mean you don't have to move your head. Hope I've understood you correctly there.

    If you're referring to string angle and touching your nose etc, then it can be a little more difficult depending on draw length compared to bow length etc. I'm a tall gangly guy, and with my old bow there was just no chance of getting the string to touch the tip of my nose etc. That was with my draw length too short also as the bow was maxxed out
    eject, EJECT!!
  2. #12
    Thank's
    Yeah, it's all guess work as I know nothing about bows.
    All my learning went into rifles, shooting, reloading and hunting for the last few years.

    Did notice also that the draw hand was going way back to ear or more and harder to hold it against the wall.
    Seemed better at 1 and 2 graduations shorter so left it at 2.
    Could be 1 1/2" shorter pull, not sure but don't think it's a full 2".
    Seems to be good and a better position for sure.
    I want the cheek, hand and a nose touch. Won't matter if the nose is not centre I spose.

    If I use this consistent position and next work on nice release and follow through, can then get back and shoulders right.
    Then just work on accuracy, distance and wind up the spring.

    See if my arm is sore tomorrow as I fired off a few. Better spot and no lost or broke arrows, only have 10 now lol.
    Also some rabbit crap and unlucky if you see another human in the spot so could be a hunting shot with luck.
  3. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Wollongong, NSW
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    #13
    Sounds alright on the draw then. Feel free to move your peep up and down as needed, but it will obviously change your sighting. Google setting peep height to see how to do it easily.

    What sort of bow is it?
    eject, EJECT!!
  4. #14
    Entry level Bear but adult size and very good adjustment. $600. 650 in other shop.
    Prob should have got the next model for $60 more but the sight and bits look ok rather than cheap and still just over $1,000 with carbon arrows and bits needed.
    No sore muscles, may look at next notch and compare pull length and arrow length. Not too sure about a broad head slicing my finger so like them sticking out an inch till I work it all out.
    Looked at the local range and will do the try day with my bow and join for 1 year as better for sighting and practice.
    More expensive than all my shooting clubs combined so 1 year will be it for me. Will be sorted within a few months with range access.
    The peep is in the string and don't want to mess with that yet.
    Will do a train trip down to other shop for more arrows ,broad heads and bits .
    Big targets may need to be sourced as they will cost more than $1 SSAA cardboard ones. Will keep my try archery ones. New I hope.
  5. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Wollongong, NSW
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    #15
    Sweet!

    Don't worry about what is on the face of the target if your just fun shooting. I just have dots drawn on my target. Plenty of easy diy targets for field points, broadheads is a little harder. Cardboard even works alright for field points but doesn't last as long.

    I also have multiple dots these days and one arrow per dot to stop hitting other arrows. Its only cool in the short term to get Robyn Hoods, gets too expensive if it happens often.

    I know what you mean with fingers and broadheads. But you don't want to set your draw length based on arrow length, but rather the other way around (I think you were saying that you didn't want to lengthen because of broadhead close to fingers). In reality your fingers wont stick up high with any normal grip, rather be out in front or even angled down a bit if your hand is on an angle like it should be. But with field points you should be fine. While sorting out draw length just make sure your arrow doesn't draw back past the rest.....obviously, but I'm still careful of it.

    The peep has no issues moving up and down the string as required. Easiest way is drawing back with your eyes closed, anchor and then open eyes. If you have to move your head to look through peep and sight housing then it will need to be moved, either up or down as appropriate. The only problem with this is that it will likely change the angle as you have moved it down through the twists in the string. If its one of the peeps with rubber tubing this probably won't be an issue as it will move it straight.

    What area are you in? Might be easier working through some of this with someone else
    eject, EJECT!!
  6. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    #16
    Could a mod update the link on the first post for the Easton tuning guide to make it easier for others to find it. I can't see myself closing my dropbox anytime soon, so it should be good for a fair while
    eject, EJECT!!
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