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  1. #11
    Thanks for the positive comments lads cheers.
  2. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Wollongong, NSW
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    #12
    Okay, question time....

    Decided to get back out and try tuning again after reading this. Was jube when I did it first time, so I thought it would be best to try again.

    I had what seemed to be nock low on paper tune when shooting bare shaft (although without fletches its hard to know what end was point and nock). I'm using whisker biscuit on a PSE stinger single cam, so I don't have the ability to raise and lower the rest. So I raised nocking point instead, and kept going and kept going and the rip got smaller and smaller until a bullet hole. Now the nocking point is really high, but thought being single cam that may come into it. The arrow undrawn has a high down angle

    I then walked back a bit more and found a nock left tear, so I moved the rest over a smidge and then I started getting nock low tears again really bad.

    Any idea whats going on here? Should I be walking back with the bare shaft? I've heard that it should shoot pretty straight with bare shaft if tuned well, so thats why I figured I would walk back a bit to around 8m to see how well tuned, but seemed to have stirred up that hornets nest a little.

    Any help on this would be great. Thanks again for the effort you put into this write up Robbie
    eject, EJECT!!
  3. #13
    Terrific write up Robbie, easier to understand the way you have it,
    Cheers
  4. #14
    Disco stu

    ok with single cam bows you can never get truly straight nock travel, but most single cam bows will shoot through paper ok depending on the size difference between the idler wheel and the cam. With paper tuning, it's best done at around six feet. You can shoot bare shafts out alot further when properly tuned, but past six feet the rip through paper won't be real consistent. you can try a few things. first check if the cam is in the correct position, your bows owner manual will have where the cam is meant to be possitioned in its rotation at rest. im not sure what the back wall on the PSE is like, but if it is spongey you could be getting some inconsistency from there. you can also try tiller tuning or creep tuning. i would also look at getting a new rest, whisker biscuits are ok, but if you a looking for consistency go with a down force style rest. PM me if you want my phone number and i might be able to help more
  5. disco stu's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    #15
    That's great, thanks robbie. I have actually always wondered a lot about nock travel with single cam. I just thought this seemed extreme. I was thinking of trying tiller tuning but thought i would see what you thought first

    The back wall on this is really solid, but will check the manual.

    I had another few shots at 6 feet and it was pretty close. Just needed slight sideways movement on the rest, but could be slightly over spined. Time to bump up a turn i think

    Cheers for the help
    eject, EJECT!!
  6. #16
    AN ABSOLUTE GEM OF A WRITE UP ROBBIE, so many blokes (and animals) will benefit from this info and many already are im sure. "Note"- Anyone that hunts animals with a bow and arrow owes it to the game they plan on taking the life of-to have their set-up tuned correctly, in order to achieve a respectable ethic hunt. Keep up the good work. cheers
  7. #17
    wow Robbie I think your tuning guide may help me solve a issue iv been having with my new hoyt carbon element rkt , since new I have had poor grouping with this bow dropping my indoor scores from 280+ shooting a second hand pse dreamseason (which I could consistently stack arrows against each other out to 35 m) to scores of 260 & 270, I first put this down to being a new bow, a change in form, shorter bow, but realised not long after I got it that the arrows were hitting the top of my smack down rest , not having don any tunning before, due that the old bow shot like a dream!. I purchased a square and a centre shot tool, I found that my centre shot was a couple of mm out and my knocking point was about 12 to 14 mm high I squared the centre shot and started moving my rest up till it stop hitting, I then tried to paper tune (fletched arrows) but found the arrows flight to be all over the place and it did not matter what I done with the rest. after the changes the bow shot better even longer shots out to 45 m but still was not concistant and had noticeable poor arrow flight, this has coursed me to lose confidence in the bow when hunting avoiding shots over 25m, after reading your tuning guide, I have got keen to have a play again and try and get the bow shotting better, and I think the problem may be with the top yoke, which was something id not looked at before, with a straight edge on the top cam running down to the bottom cam it is out of line by about 30mm, unlike my dreamseason which sits flat on both cams, I will start from scratch again with your tuning guide and see how I end up, happy hunting
  8. bradster78's Avatar
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    Jul 2013
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    Gold Coast , QLD
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    17
    #18
    Fantastic and informative write up! thank you for making the effort to educate newbies like myself :)
  9. #19
    Good on ya rob.. Soon there will alot of finely tuned bows out there.. A definite welcome sight.
    Great write up..
  10. #20
    thanks Robbie was never that confident at twisting up cables and this helped tune my bow up really well now shooting much better with a solid wall now thanks
    hoyt faktor turbo
    PSE supra max me
    spot hogg sights
    easton arrows
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